Left: The Eiffel Tower can be seen glittering every night. Right: Your reviewer was dazzled by La Vie En Rose cocktail blending vodka, Chambord and Champagne. Courtesy of Karen McLean
Roseville’s own makes a return trip to Madame Brasserie, the Eiffel Tower’s first-level restaurant
When I was recruited to pen reviews for the Reporter, my first question was “Should I only write about Roseville restaurants?’ Answer: “Mostly Roseville, but you can occasionally critique ones in nearby northern suburbs.” So I haven’t strayed far.
But when I casually mentioned to the editor that I was going to Paris and would have lunch at the Eiffel Tower, their reaction: “Write about it!!” Not exactly in the neighborhood, but I happily agreed, in case anyone from this area is going to France and wants a lofty lunch.
Returning was definitely déjà vu. But inflation has elevated the experience.
Perhaps 20 years ago, when travelling in France with a group of friends, my longtime amie Pat Lindquist wanted to get to Paris early to have lunch at the vaunted Jules Verne restaurant on the tower’s second level. She offered to hire a car and driver for an hour’s journey to the city. I couldn’t refuse. It’s been so long that I don’t recall what we ate, except there was a chocolate effigy of the tower adorning dessert, and the view was terrific. What I do remember is the price: about $60 for three courses.
Next time, I was leading a group of food writers to France and we went “downstairs” to the Madame Brasserie on the tower’s first level where the price was about $40 each. The food wasn’t fancy, but definitely French in homestyle fashion.
About a decade ago, with another group, we returned to the Jules Verne for a $100 price tag before boarding a river cruise on the Seine, Paris to Normandy.
And now, summer of ‘26, again in France for a Seine cruise, our foursome wanted to dine at the Eiffel so I investigated lunch at Jules Verne, but quickly abandoned the idea. The price is now $200 for three courses (add wine and tip to the bill), and I thought my friends wouldn’t be interested in such a splurge. So I lowered the level, the price and expectations by returning to Madame Brasserie for ONLY a hundred bucks for three courses (I booked through Viator which included the cost of an elevator ride up one of the tower’s flared legs, a slanted adventure in itself). Food costs can’t be that dear, but what we paid for was the view. So did a throng of other diners who opted for the 1:30 p.m. second seating. Every table was occupied.
Now to the food: two options per course. First, the entrée (what the French call the appetizer.) The other three ordered hard-cooked eggs bathed in mayonnaise, brightened with slices of red radish, and were happy. None liked lamb, the other offering. But I do, so I chanced on the terrine made of ground lamb and vegetable bits, enrobed in gelatin, garnished with sesame eggplant caviar. I suspect the slice of terrine was blasted with a blowtorch to make the gelatin ultra-smooth. It reminded me of my mother’s headcheese, a technique she learned growing up on a farm, where a pig’s head was boiled, the meat scraped to mix with veggies and gelatin. Never high on my wishlist, but Mom and Dad considered it a treat. What can I say? This French version of that farm food was agreeable.
On to the main dish, or plat principal. My friends all asked for chicken and mashed potatoes— rather prosaic. One wished she had specified white meat. Their pronouncement: “It was OK,” but not the gourmet effect they envisioned.
Again, I chose differently: risotto with creamy tomato sauce, fennel and parmesan. It was more akin to Italian than French cuisine.
We reached consensus on dessert: fromage blanc cream and raspberries in homemade granola. Pleasant enough.
And then there were the rolls. Hard rolls— really hard —which might have left the patisserie days before. We asked for butter to grease their way down our gullets. The waiter delivered foil-wrapped cubes of elegant Lescure butter, but only three of them and there were four of us. We shared.
An absolute high point for me was ordering the restaurant’s signature cocktail named for a classic French tune, “La Vie en Rose.” It blended vodka, chambord (blackberry) liqueur and Champagne spritz over ice, served in a hefty goblet I could hardly lift. Oh, so delightful and memorable, good to the last drop, for 23 euros.
Our entertainment that afternoon was watching two young girls sitting with their parents. One wore a birthday crown and both were dazzled by dining at the Tower. When a waiter brought a slice of frosted torte ablaze with candles, they were giddy and giggly. What a memory for them.
All that said, I’m not discouraging you from lunching (or dinnering) at Madame Brasserie, but if you travel all the way to Paris, go for broke and rise to the Jules Verne. The food will be better and if you dine there only once in your life, it will be a treasured moment.
Or here’s another idea. Twice, while in Las Vegas, I’ve lunched with friends at the replica Eiffel Tower’s restaurant and enjoyed every morsel. It’s closer to home and less expensive, even for dinner or brunch.
Bon Appetit!
What a delightful read from Eleanor Ostman!! My travelling days are over, so must now live vicariously–but even I can try concocting a Chambord and Champagne cocktail without leaving Minnesota. Kiitos!!