This St. Paul breakfast spot pairs perfect coffee with top-notch eats.

By Eleanor Ostman — Food Critic

Decisions about which restaurants to review have been my responsibility, but I am open to suggestions, and one came recently from a Reporter reader: “You should check out Perfect Coffee.” 

I don’t drink coffee— not that I can’t but I rarely do. And I had not heard of Perfect Coffee. But a website search revealed that they serve more than a cup of Joe, and I brought along a coffee drinker to serve as an official taster. “Best I’ve ever had,” was her enthusiastic assessment. That hurdle overcome, we went onward with ordering breakfast, with spectacular results.

Eggs Benedict are my favorite morning repast, and I traditionally order them on the first morning of any cruise. Most follow the original arrangement of toasted English muffins topped with Canadian bacon, poached eggs and Hollandaise, said to have been named for a New York millionaire, Lemuel Benedict, who ate that breakfast at the Waldorf Astoria Hotel as a hangover cure.

On a recent Viking cruise, I looked forward to my favorite breakfast, but what was this?

Shredded pork supported the eggs. Not classic! I am reminded of the time, more than a half century ago, when the Minneapolis-St. Paul airport, now known as Terminal 1, was newly opened. My husband and I were meeting another couple before boarding a flight for a tropical vacation. At that time, before all the concourses were added with countless dining options, there was only a lunch counter in the original structure. We decided to have breakfast, and when my friend asked for Canadian bacon, the waitress hollered to the cook, “Does our bacon come from Canada?”

Viking redeemed itself by offering salmon Benedict— English muffins smothered with smoked salmon, poached eggs, Hollandaise and a sprinkle of pink caviar. My son recently went to brunch in Washington D.C. where the Benedict layered toasted croissants, sliced beef tenderloin, eggs and Hollandaise. Chef creativity has trumped the customary formula.

Perfect Coffee’s version veers a bit, but it was about the best Benedict I’ve ever had!

I asked the eggs to be cooked medium, but they were rather well-done. That was forgiven as my fork delved under the perfect lemony sauce and discovered ham, sliced tomato and crispy bacon bits. I can’t wait to have it again.

My friend Midge ordered the Half Breakfast, but it was still a lot of food. Two fried eggs instead of the usual three, grilled ham, a heap of perfect hash browns and her choice of six breads for toast. She chose rye. When her coffee cup was nearly emptied, our cheerful waiter didn’t bring a pot for refilling. He brought her a fresh mug-full of newly brewed Peace coffee, roasted in Minnesota. Classy.

The two of us could only make a minimal dent in the breakfast menu. Five varieties of pancakes including chocolate chip are offered, as are a bevy of omelets and eggy skillets. I hear the freshly-squeezed orange juice is divine. Next time.

We did sample, as a salute to the owners’ Mexican heritage, chilaquiles: taco chips, queso and green sauce (red sauce is an option). Those sauces are also offered at another family owned-enterprise a couple of blocks south on Rice Street: a meat shop called Trompirio el Zac and an adjacent taco shop.

When Perfect Coffee opened about nine months ago in the former Coffee Cup restaurant (rehabbed after being closed for six years because of a fire), owner Juan Lopez envisioned a neighborhood destination where coffee was the main attraction. But breakfast, then lunch was added, and there’s a rumor that supper favorites are being considered. Not yet. Don’t go for dinner, because the place opens at 6 a.m. and closes at 3 p.m. daily, but lunch is another lure. 

I took another neighbor, Gary Carlson, for a mid-day meal and again, I was amazed. Gary ordered simply: salad rife with strawberries and an OK chili. We desserted on a chocolate mousse torte, not made in-house, but appropriately decadent.

The Cali Burger, my choice, about five inches tall, was more than my jaw could encompass, so I dismantled it. Two primo hamburger patties (they use another Minnesota product, Swanson’s Meats), cheese (five varieties are available), perfectly ripe avocado wedges, tomato, lettuce, a buttery bun and chipotle mayo. The parts were equal to the sum and much easier to consume. Note that all Perfect Coffee burgers stack two beef patties.

Perfect Coffee has a nice vibe. Customers seem to be happy with their meals. The waiters are simpatico. And there was a pleasant surprise when I got the bill: a 10 percent senior discount. Teachers, students and first responders get the same courtesy.

The Perfect Coffee: 1446 Rice St, St. Paul, Minn. 651-348-2971. Open daily for breakfast and lunch, 6 a.m. — 3 p.m. Their website is informative, with directions on how to make perfect coffee.