Diners worship the menu and ambiance

By Eleanor Ostman

Anticipation simmered in Roseville a half dozen years ago as rumors circulated about the block-like building rising on Rosedale’s perimeter road. Word was that it would house a sorely-needed upscale dining destination. The rumors became reality when Baldamar opened its very heavy doors to the public on October 16, 2019.

Baldamar? The sturdy name honors the patron saint of British blacksmiths. Since the waitstaff all wear leather aprons, I thought it memorialized ancient leather workers, but not true. The restaurant’s interior has warmly-dark decor —

comfortable and welcoming. Some of the most coveted seats surround  the massive central bar. If I have one complaint, it’s that the suede upholstery in the booths is not conducive to sliding into place. Even the bathrooms are worth a visit for their quirky decor.

Confession time: Baldamar is my go-to restaurant, and I go often. When the Roseville Reporter suggested my first review should be Baldamar, I said an enthusiastic “you bet.”

Hospitable General Manager Michael Symons says that ownership is linked to an upscale Wayzata eatery called 6Smith. Another unusual name. The team there recognized the need for premier dining in the eastern suburbs, and chose Rosedale as a busy hub and untapped market.

Timing was not ideal. Symons said that just months after opening, the curse of COVID stymied the restaurant business. Hard to enjoy the dining experience with a mask on your face. But Baldamar’s seductive menu kept customers coming, and the place endured, indeed thrived.

Enough minutiae. Let’s talk menu. Foremost, Baldamar is a steak house. Translation: Bring money. Top seller, said Symons, is the rib-eye. American wagyu beef is grilled exclusively. I’ve had steak there during Restaurant Week visits, but never off the menu. I do have other favorites that don’t make my credit card quiver. If you hustle to Baldamar in the next week or so, you might still be able to try the watermelon salad before it goes on winter hiatus. It’s a jewel box of berries, watermelon cubes, chopped pecans, blue cheese and a tangy vinaigrette. Superb! It will soon be replaced until next watermelon season with the Harvest Salad built upon roasted butternut squash with a maple syrup vinaigrette. Gotta try that one, too.

What makes me happiest at Baldamar is Happy Hour, and I’ve been countless times. The main attraction for me is the liberally-stuffed lobster roll. It started out at $12 but the price has crept up to $14 — “rising food and labor costs” Symons explained. Still worth every penny. Last year, in Portland, Maine, where the main ingredient is harvested just off-shore, a lobster roll cost me forty bucks— and it didn’t have nearly as much filling in it as Baldamar’s tarragon-enhanced version.

There’s always a $12 Happy Hour burger of excellent repute. The first time I ever went there, three of us at the table ordered french fries and we were overcome with the quantity. One platter is definitely shareable. Oysters on the half shell are $4 each. I also enjoy the lamb sliders and the short rib birria tacos, also $14.

Bar offerings are creative. Beers are $5; cocktails rise to $12. If you are abstaining, try the zero proof cocktails such as the Pineapple Express that blends pineapple, coconut, lime and cream.

Should you offer to treat friends to Happy Hour at Baldamar, you can appear to be a big spender without too hefty a bill. Another positive: all day is Happy Hour on Sunday. Saturday hours start at 11 a.m., continuing to 3 p.m. Weekdays it’s 2 to 4 p.m.,  served only in the bar area.

Weekend brunches are also offered; on Sunday, priced at $48.95, but you could eat that much in shrimp. On Saturdays, the price tag is $100 per person, including unlimited food and all the Champagne you can guzzle.

Two other favored treats: the bread plate featuring warm crusty baguette with a trio of flavored butters and the towering chocolate cake (gotta be at least 10 layers high) swathed in chocolate frosting. Definitely shareable, down to the last crumb.

Like everything at Baldamar, you owe it to yourself to indulge.

Baldamar is at 1642 County road B2 West. Phone: 651-796-0040